Leon
After a 9 hour bus journey from El Salvador to San Isidro in Nicaragua, and another two hour journey in a small local minivan from San Isidro, we eventually arrived in Leon. Since
we were about a thousand people squashed into a ten seater minivan and considering Antoine had only enough room for one butt cheek on the seat, we were delighted to eventually get there and
into the cool "Big Foot" hostel. Leon is a small town full of churches, there are as many churches in Leon as there are
pubs in small Irish towns, so imagine! Even for the non religious though its a fab place to hang out for a few days. It is only an hour from the pacific coast of Nicaragua so that was our
first port of call. We spent the whole day wandering along the huge beaches and swimming in the hot pacific sea. The beaches are so beautiful as they are totally unspoiled, instead of being lined
with hotels they are lined with palm trees and coconut tree. You will even find the odd lost pig soaking up the sun and sniffing through the fallen coconuts! We have been very
lucky with the weather so far on our trip, continual summer! Its great having a tan in November! On the beach was no exception as it was roasting, however late afternoon we got to experience a
heavy tropical down pour. In normal circumstances rain is a pain (I know, Im from Donegal!) but when your already in the sea and the rain is hot, its actually good fun, esp when it ends again 5
minutes later and the sun comes back to dry you off :-) Although that night on our way back to town we got to experience a real tropical storm, ive never seen so much lightening or heavy rain in
my life! (and as ive said before, Im from Donegal!). The bus left us off on the outskirts of the town and before we even got under the bus shelter we were soaked. Not knowing how to get into town
we followed some guys who ran to a pickup which stopped beside the bus shelter, lots of taxis here are pickups. However once we jumped on and everyone started staring at us we realised that
something was different about this taxi....it wasnt a taxi at all! We had jumped into the back of some family´s pickup, as they politely informed us before telling us to get lost. oops! We did
eventually make it back to the hostal happy and drenched but not before Antoine took a shower under the water pouring from the side of the cathedral!
Another deadly thing to do in Leon is visit the Cerro Negro Volcano, its an active volcano and one of the best youll ever visit as you get to sand board down the side of it. We went with a
mixture of people from our hostal (people from Israel, America, Iceland and Holland) and we all did the 45 minute hike to the top with our wooden boards, before eventually being pushed over the
edge and flying down the volcano in bright orange suits. It is a steep 400m to the bottom and you can reach speeds of up to 65km! I have to say I was a tad nervous sitting on my wooden board at
the top (not to mention feeling slightly ridiculous in the orange suit - wait for the photos!) but once I was over the edge it was so much fun. One of the guys from Iceland took a good fall on
the way down but apart from that we all made it alive. We stopped off at a Nicaraguan farm on the way back to get some fresh sugar cane to revive us and then had a celebratory mojito at the
hostal to congratulate ourselves!
11 horas de viaje desde San Salvador y llegamos a Leon, pequeña ciudad al norte de Nicaragua con más iglesias que ladrones en el rastro. Nos instalamos en el
BigFoot y estamos hospedados en un dorm de unas 12 camas. El sitio esta chulo y nos encontramos con un australiano bastante majo que conocimos en El Salvador.
Como a una hora de Leon estan las playas de las Peñitas. Nos tiramos como una hora caminando por la playa y al final nos tiramos en el agua para refrescarnos. Se pone a llover en plan
lluvia tropical mientras estamos en el agua. Al salir, nos sirve de ducha para quitar la saly y a los 5 minutos sale el sol de nuevo: perfecto!
Como a una horita de pickup esta el volcan del Cerro Negro. Este volcan solo tiene 160 años por lo que no tiene vegetacion en sus costados. Nos tiramos como una hora y pico subiendo bajo un sol
imponiente. Pero la recompensa va a ser buena: tenemos unos trineos de madera para poder tirarnos sobre el costado con mas pendiente. Es ahi donde Eric Baronne batio su record de velocidad en
bicicleta hace unos años. Cerca de 170 km/h...Nosotros hemos sido mas razonables aunque yo creo que Annemarie estuvo cerca de los 50 km/h, bajo como una bala! Una bala naranja, ya que llevamos
unos monos super sexys dignos de la peli de Stanley Kubrick!
Granada
Once we were done with the beach and sand boarding down volcanos we left Leon and headed through Managua (the capital of Nic) on towards Granada. We had an interesting chat in the bus with a young
guy from Managua who informed us of different people who had died and gone to hell. Dont ask! Like in Leon we found a cool hostal to stay in and even had our own little loft room that you had to
climb up a ladder to get to (see photo of Ant). Very cute but also very noisy as we found out on our first night trying to sleep there. Granada is on the edge of a huge lake but
Antoine´s first swim there wasnt in the lake, it was in fact fully clothed in a very posh five star hotel. We have this little game which we play, and well..... he lost! He got lucky though as
he managed to slip out the front door of the hotel, dripping water everywhere, before anyone saw him to give him a telling off. It was a rather amusing sight! On our second day in Granada we went
to visit a well known lake there, Laguna Apoyo. Its a gorgeous place hidden in a valley surrounded by green tropical forests. Yes we spent another tough day swimming and sun bathing :-)
Pasamos rapidamente por Managua para cambiar de Bus y llegamos a Granada a medio dia. Nos hospedamos en el Beard Monkey, en
un especie de Loft que domina parte del hostel. La ciudad es bastante pequeña por lo que se puede ver casi todo en poco tiempo. Aprovechamos para ir al lago de Granada, a la laguna de Apoyo, mas
precisamente, y pasamos parte del dia en el agua y la playita de ahi, relajados. A la vuelta a Granda, entramos en un hotel de 5 estrellas por curiosidad. Hay una piscina interior y todo este
impecable. Hago una apuesta con annemarie, hacemos "Piedra, papel o tijera" a ver a quien le toca tirarse vestido en la piscina...Os dais cuenta de la suerte que tengo de tener una novia asi? Que
hace estos desafios!
Al dia seguiente pillamos un bus para ir a la isla de Ometepe, las isla mas grande de las 400 que estan el el Lago Nicaragua.
Por cierto, me toco a mi saltar a la piscina, y cruzar todo el hall empapado...
Ometepe Island
After leaving our little tree house in Granada we made our way by bus and ferry out to the island of Ometepe. We then took the one hour bus journey to the far side of the island to the town of
Altagracia. It took a while to find somewhere to stay but we eventually found the rather cheesy Hotel Central. The town was buzzing that night as it was the San Diego festival. After a good
wander around we found that it was similar to any festival in Europe...lots of music and boozing, however with the added touch of cock-fighting! Curiosity made us enter for a look and
although it isnt as horrible as I imagined, it aint a pretty sight. They put razor blades on the rooster´s feet and then make them fight with each other....as you do?!?! We watched a few
fights but left before the end as the local drunk decided to try and befriend us. The next day we decided to escape the strange customs of the town and head to an organic coffee farm (Finca
Magdalena) which offered accomadation and hikes up one of the island´s two volcanos, Maderas. The other volcano on the island, Concepcion, is active so we decided not to climb it! I was really
excited about staying on a farm, there go my Donegal roots shining through again. However with the big eared bumpy backed cows, the organic coffee plantation, the banana trees, the huge volcano in
the background and the screeches of Howler Monkeys....it somehow didnt remind me of home! As planned on our second day on the farm we hiked the very tough, steep and slippy 5 kms to the top of the
volcano. The volcano is covered in cloud forest, so once we started climbing we were literally in the clouds, it was rainy and misty. It felt like we were entering another world as it was the
opposite to the bright sunny day below us. We eventually got to the top after 3 hours of climbing stones and mud to find a mist covered, rather creepy, lake. Ant was brave enough to go for a swim
but unfortunately Id forgotten my bikini (ah well!). The climb down took us another 3 hours as it was super slippy, and yes there were a few falls! After the hike the plan was to leave the island
and get the ferry towards the Costa Rican border. This turned out to be more eventful than planned due to a lack of cash and the absence of a banklink on the island. We ended up part paying a taxi
driver with a knife Antoine had to get to the ferry and thanks to a sound English guy lending us some money we didnt have to suffer the 12 hour ferry journey on an empty stomach. The ferry journey
in economy class was surreal. Since it was economy it was mostly local pesants (with chickens an all) and us squashed into the bottom part of the ferry. People were laying everywhere on the floor,
chickens were making noise...it was total chaos! An eternally long 12 hours later the ferry arrived in San Carlos, there was more than one sigh of relief. Then from San Carlos we got another
small boat to take us across the river border and into Costa Rica to Los Chiles. The border crossing was much better than the ferry ride, as not only were there no chickens on the boat but we
also got to see monkeys and crocodiles along the riverside...Costa Rica here we come.
Ometepe viene del Nahuatl y significa "Las dos montañas". Efectivamente, en cada extremo de la isla hay dos volcanes. El mas grande, Volcan Concepcion, y su hermanito pequeño, volcan maderas que
nos patearemos al segundo dia de estar ahi.
El ferry desde San Jorge dura como 1 hora y se llega a la ciudad principal de la isla: Moyogalpa. Desde ahi nos vamos directamente a Altagracia donde nos hospedaremos. Esa noche es la San Diego asi
que hay una fiesta en el pueblo. Nos acercamos a ver que tal y por primera vez en nuestras vidas asistimos a unas peleas de gallos. Es todo un mundo, con la gente que apuesta, los gritos. Los que
tienen su gallo peleando, si ganan, se pueden llevar hasta 5000$ !
De ahi nos vamos a uno hora de ahi por un camino de tierra, en un buseto de mala muerte. El pueblo se llame Balgue pero caminando 1km nos vamos a la Finca Magdalena. Esta finca pertenece a unas 25
familias y producen cafe ecologico. Leemos en la guia que la comida es excelente...el que escibio ese comentario tiene que ser Ingles seguro!
La subida al volcan maderas es completamente diferente a lo que habiamos imaginado. El dia estaba soleado hasta que entramos en un micro-clima donde hay nubes y una llovizna permanente. Los 5 km de
subida se hacen dificiles tanto por la pendiente y el estado del camino: barro, raices, piedras. En el crater me doy un baño en gallumbos, aunque el tiempo no invita mucho. Ya es la tercera vez que
Annemarie se ha dejado el bañador y se queda en la orilla viendo como disfruto del baño...
Ya es hora de irse de la isla y cruzar la frontera para entrar a Costa Rica. Hemos perdido el bus asi que llamamos a un taxi pick up para que venga a buscarnos y llevarnos al puerto de gracia. 20$
el trayecto, bastante caro pero no queda otra, a parte de que no tenemos mucho dinero: unos 5$ Pedimos al colega que pase por un cajero pero solo hay uno en la isla. en moyogalpa...asi que nos
lleva al puerto y le pagamos con un cuchillo de supervivencia que me habia llevado y 2$, utilizando los 3$ restantes para pagar el ferry hasta San Carlos.
Que decir de las casi 12 horas de trayecto en el ferry??!! Surrealista: 200 personas metidas en una lata de sardinas. La gente durmiendo debajo de los asientos, gallinas, enfin, un caos. Un ingles
nos dio un poco de dinero para que pudieramos comprar algo de comer. Que majo...
Una vez en San Carlos y tras unas 3 horas de espera, nos subimos en otro barco que nos llevara hasta Los Chiles, suelo Costariquense. Lo logramos!!!
Here's the selection of pictures from Nicaragua. Enjoy!